Backpacking The Enchantments
I quickly became hooked on the idea of backpacking the Enchantments after seeing a picture of the golden Larches in 2019. After two unsuccessful years of applying for permits, I decided to get a couple of buddies in on the draw to increase our chances. Sure enough, this past February we scored backpacking permits set for the first week of October 2022 - AKA prime Larch season in this magical region of the Pacific Northwest. A little over a week ago, we arrived in the small Bavarian themed town of Leavenworth, Washington to prep for 3 days and 2 nights in what would turn out to be the most unique nook of the Continental US that I've explored thus far in my life.
Larches
A quick background on Larches. Larches are a type of rare, deciduous conifer tree that can be found in the Pacific Northwest, as well as British Columbia. During the spring and summer seasons, they don't look much different from your typical Evergreen tree. For about two weeks during the fall, however, the Larch needles turn gold, and they take on a look that belongs in a Doctor Seuss book. It's pretty hard to get a permit to overnight the Enchantments, and even harder to properly time it up with the weeks in which the Larches are in their prime. We did both - and the trees' character more than lived up to its reputation.
Day Zero - The Wedge
On Thursday, October 6th - the eve of our entrance into the enchantments - we were itching to get up to some elevation and get our eyes on the zone we’d be exploring over the next few days. We hopped in the truck and drove for about an hour up a rugged dirt road which would bring us to the trailhead of Wedge Mountain. After a brief (and steep) climb, we were sitting on top of the Wedge. The view from the top of Wedge Mountain overlooked the entire Enchantment Zone. From there we could asses our peaks (Dragontail, and The Temple being the most prominent) and pick out Snow and Nada Lakes, which we would be hiking by on our way out on Sunday. After spending 30 minutes at the top, we headed back down for a brat and beer in Leavenworth and one last good night sleep before heading into the Enchantments.
Boo and Ryan scouting the zone. Doug contemplating life.
Witnessing first-hand Boo’s incredible footwork.
Day One - Colchuck Lake
We got to the trailhead around 6:30am on Friday, just as first light was starting to seep in through the mountains. We were immediately greeted by a through-hiker who asked us if we were ready to climb Mount Rainier - a snarky reference to the size of our packs that none of us took lightly given the early hour of the morning. From there it was a quiet 4-mile hike up to Colchuck Lake - the first of many alpine lakes that we would encounter over the course of weekend, and what would serve as our base camp for the next two nights. We camped on the far end of the lake closest to Aasgard Pass.
Base Camp
We set up base camp right off the shore of Colchuck Lake, tucked away between a mix of Larches and Evergreens. Friday evening we encountered a mountain goat strolling along the shore no more than 20 yards away from us. Ryan brought out the fly rod and to our surprise was able pull in a small Rainbow Trout.
Aasgard pass would be the crux of the trek - the price you must pay to enter the Core Zone of the Enchantments. It’s a steep scramble in which you cover 2200 feet in just over 3 quarters of a mile. Unless you have a permit to camp in the Core Zone, you must climb Aasgard in order to experience the best part of the park. We set up camp as close to the pass as possible as we knew we’d have to hit it twice in as many days.
Day Two - Exploring the Core
We woke up to a crisp Saturday morning on the lake, and after a couple bowls of oatmeal and some instant coffee, we started on the pass at first light around 7:30am. We put our heads down and were able to make it up the pass in about an hour with our day packs. Once we got to the top, we got our first glimpse of what makes this area so sought after - the Core Zone. Immediately you are greeted by a trio of small, alpine lakes surrounded by boulder fields and golden vegetation that seemed to glow in the morning light. We walked among small streams and scattered larches until we reached a perch that overlooked two of the larger alpine lakes. Here we took some time to gather our thoughts and take in the incredible views of an otherworldly environment.
The Golden Throne. When we got to the top of Aasgard pass, Ryan had hopes of relieving himself on this royal perch. Unfortunately, the condition and the contents of the toilet were not as pleasant as the locale.
We continued onwards into the Core Zone and eventually made it to Perfection Lake. Hoping for a bit of refreshment, we each jumped in - and I think we all agreed that it was the coldest body of water any of us had ever been in. It immediately took my breath away, and I went straight into fight or flight mode to get my ass back to the shore. Warming back up in the sun felt amazing, so the initial shock was definitely worth it. We continued to lay out by the lake side and cook up some Ramen Noodles in the jet boil. Ryan whipped out the binoculars and we could see a pair of climbers headed up Prusik Peak. Around 2pm, we gathered our belongings and headed back up towards the top of the core zone, where we continued on to the top of Little Annapurna - a mellow 8,440 foot peak that rewarded us with some great views of the jagged and gnarly looking mountains below.
Heading back down Aasgard Pass that evening took a little more concentration than any of us really wanted to put forth at the time. However, halfway down we were greeted by a majestic mountain goat that, unbeknownst to him, really boosted team morale. Unfortunately I had my camera tucked away in my bag at this point. We finally made it down to base camp shortly after 6pm, where we stuffed our face with some dried food and washed it down with a mug of hot cocoa and fireball.
Day Three - Leprechaun Lake and The Hike Out
Day Three. The next 12 hours would really solidify this trip as one of my favorite adventures I’ve ever been on, and make the Enchanments a destination that I will return to anytime I’m given the opportunity.
Sunday Morning was a 4am wake up call. We ate breakfast and downed some coffee, packed up camp, and were back on Aasgard pass by 6:30am with head lamps and 40 pound packs. It took us an hour and a half to get up to the top. When we first crossed over the ridge, the Sunday morning sun was was just popping up over the mountains beyond and we watched as a ball of red fire slowly rose and lit up the golden vegetation surrounding us. We snapped a quick self-timed photo in front of Dragontail Peak and continued on down to the lakes where we hoped to spend as much time as possible on our final day.
After another couple miles we made it down to Leprechaun Lake. We went off trail a bit and found the perfect rock to relax on, cook lunch, and fish for the next couple of hours. For me, this was definitely the highlight of the trip. Everyone seemed to be in their element; all of us doing our own thing and enjoying what at the time felt like the most unique corner of the Earth, beautifully isolated from everything and everyone. Ryan started slaying it on the fly rod, and I was fortunate enough to hook up on a small Rainbow Trout as well.
Doug.
After a tranquil couple of hours spent on the rock, it was time to get back on the trail. We had nine miles out to the car and we were all ready to get back to Leavenworth for a sausage and beer. We continued on through another couple miles of larches and alpine lakes, then passed Snow and Nada Lakes - a zone I’d definitely like to return to when we have a bit more time.
Epilogue
It’s been about 2 years now since I left the East Coast, however it seems much longer. I couldn’t be more grateful for different parts of the nation that I’ve been able to explore since I made that move. That being said, it’s trips like these - exploring new places with old friends - that really makes me the happiest. A massive shout out to Boo, Doug, and my annual partner in crime - Dr. McFadden - for trusting me on this one and spending the time and money to travel across the country to join me on an adventure I will never forget. Thanks boys.
